The Wine Lover Cooks with Wine

September 13, 2004
According to Goldstein, wine is a "magical ingredient" that "tenderizes and adds moisture to food, as well as imparting a deep, complex flavor." The author of The Wine Lover's Cookbook
now explains how to not just pair wine with food, but actually cook with it, presenting his own recipes plus many collected from American chefs, all requiring a certain amount of culinary expertise. Most dishes are made with traditional and contemporary varietal wines, but fortified and specialty wines also make appearances. The recipes are organized by the cooking technique using wine: sauces; steaming; simmering and poaching; marinating; or braising. Traditional recipes mix with international flavors in dishes such as Florida chef Allen Susser's Adobo-Grilled Filet Mignon, and Washington, D.C., chef Nora Pouillon's Coq au Vin, and Tequila-and-Sherry-Marinated Prawns Diablo. There's also a chapter on non-wine-based side dishes designed to complement the entrées in the book, such as Roasted Garlic and Horseradish Mashed Potatoes and Gorgonzola. A final section on desserts and drinks offers recipes for Drunken Chocolate Cake with Port and Hot Mulled "Touchdown" Shiraz. Goldstein recommends wines to drink with each recipe—rarely the same wine that was used in the dish. Paul Moore's unimaginative but palatable photos add color and visual accompaniment to this sophisticated and informative master class in cooking with wine.